Military Gear & Army Surplus Gear Blog

DIY School Blazer Refashion | Military Inspired [Part 2]

DIY School Blazer Refashion | Military Inspired  [Part 2]


Hello! Welcome to Part 2 of the military-
inspired refashion. To quickly recap, I got my hands on a couple high school blazers, one of which refashioned in Part 1. What you see here is what’s left of the
second blazer after I stripped it of its sleeves and breast pocket. I forgot to take a before shot but let’s just say it looks like it’s been through a cat fight or two. I’ll show you what I mean later. To give you an idea of what it looked
like before, here’s a clip from the first one. Now let’s get started Since the lapels are damaged, I decided to do away with them. To start, a placed to pin below the damaged area, then drew a line from the pin to the collar. For allowance, I made another line 1/2 inch from the first then cut. Afterwards, I opened up a section below
the raw edge to blend it in with the rest of the seam. Next, I turned under the half inch allowance and pressed. While doing so, I made sure the center
front halves didn’t overlap and that both sides were symmetrical. For the collar, I made it a stand-up by
taking a little off the top. To do that, I first pinned it to my ideal height then marked a 1/4 inch above the pins and cut. After cutting, I opened up the rest of
the collar then turned under the allowance and press. Before sewing, I matched up the center
front to ensure they were the same length. With the sleeves gone, I used the
opportunity to adorn the shoulders. Using the damaged sleeve, I made a couple epaulets by first taking apart the sleeve and lining then press. On the sleeve fabric, I drew a rectangle 6 by 12 then divided it in half for each
epaulette and cut. Next, on one of the epaulets, I created a point by first measuring and marking one and a half inch to locate the center. For the sides, I did the same measuring and marking one and a half. To complete the point, I drew a line from
the sides to the center then cut. Afterwards, I used it as a template for
the other epaulette and the linings. With two epaulets cut from the main fabric and two from the lining, I took one of each and place them together right sides facing. I then pinned and sewed a half inch from the edge leaving the squared end open. Next, I clipped all the corners and reduced the seam allowance to a quarter inch. Once that was done, I turned the epaulets
right side out, then gently used my scissors to help
with the corners. To attach the epaulets to the blazer I
place them on the shoulders aligning the point with the shoulder seam
approximately 1/2 inch from the neck. With the point pinned in place, I sewed the
other end along the armhole allowance. I already went ahead and did the other
side so here’s what that looks like. Now before I continued with the epaulets
I finished the armholes. I did this by turning under the armhole
allowance then taking the existing lining doing the same and pinning them together. Once that was done, I unpinned the epaulette from the shoulder then stitched along the edge. I then resumed attaching the epaulettes. To secure the points, I handsewed them to the shoulder with the small buttons. Now for the fun part. This trim, because it’s braided, unravels easily so I started by taping the ends. All right, so I went ahead and pinned one side to give you a preview of the pattern I used. For starters I put pins in place to use as my guide. I placed one an inch below the neck and on the side I placed a row of pins 5 inches from the center front. Taking my braid I first made a loop with the end tucked under then pinned it following my guide. If you look closely at the pattern, it
almost looks like pairs of scissors being looped together. I did 4 of them in
total, one for each button. If you find this design intimidating there are simpler ones out there you can try. After my pattern was pinned, I went
straight to finish. The trick to sewing this trim is the stitch along the sides. On the sides of the trim, there’s a row of stitching that I use as a guide. Now before I started sewing, I carefully removed the tape, then tucked the end back under the loop. To sew, I use a three millimeter straight stitch, but you could also use a small zigzag. Now all that was left was to attach the
buttons and voila. I hope this tutorial has inspired you to take a second glance at a damaged piece and think about how you can rework it
around its flaws. With that, I want to wish you a very special holiday and all the best for the New Year; and as always, thanks for watching. See you next year.


Reader Comments

  1. Besides being so creative and having such a great fashion sense your tutorials are explained well. I don't get confused. Great job on this project!

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